To Europe - behind energy of a survival.
To Europe - behind energy of a survival.
Year of crisis of millenia has promptly come to an end. New
The century, the new millenium, a new civilisation - that waits for us ahead?
There has passed summer, and August which have already got used to be afraid,
Has depressed and has discouraged us aggression of people and
The rebelled technics: act of terrorism on Pushkin, a submarine "Kursk" and
The Ostankinsky tower - whether not too is a lot of all for one month? And
One more technogenic accident - with supersonic passenger
By plane "Concorde" - the day before. The list can be prolonged. What
Signs are submitted to us by a century of high technologies? Perhaps hi-tech (the high
Technology) material means demands so high
Technologies of human relations? Relations of people to the nature and
To the world and the person to the person?
This summer we with colleagues have devoted two weeks blitsosmotru
Civilisation achievements in its most citadel - the Western Europe,
Having girdled Moscow, Petersburg, Helsinki, Stockholm, Copenhagen,
Amsterdam, To? ln, Frankfurt am Main and again Moscow.
"Mercedes"!
FIRST OF ALL we were reserved by means of transportation - the car
The "Mercedes", kindly given to us one of firms. Most
Amazing in this sample of hi-tech - the onboard computer with
Navigating system. Besides that this automobile brain
Gives the information on all parametres of movement (speed, run,
The gasoline expense, etc.) and about a status of the car, but still
Can conduct you to the purpose specified on a computer map. Constantly
Receiving from the companion the information on a site on a movement course
And verifying it with the most detailed district map put in pawn in memory
(I.e. Making "space positioning"), the computer
Female voice in English gives exact instructions about
The shortest transit taking into account rules, road features
And signs in the given district. He warned us, for example, that
Through 250 metres we need to turn to the right. If we
Slipped this place, it, having calculated new, correcting
Route, more persevering voice with more frequent reminders
Supervised over us, ordering to return back or somewhere to curtail.
The computer warns and about road "stoppers", gives a route
The shortest detour.
Having overcome borders of 5 states and easily having swallowed 5 thousand
Kilometres, we have grown fond of this car and have got used to it. A fruit
Careful human work has not brought us.
Opera on the nature.
The FIRST stop on our travel - Finland. The country,
Shown to us examples of a close and life-giving interlacing of history and
The present, the pure nature and the refined technics. In the centre
The cities of Savonlinna there is fortress Olavinlinna constructed in
XV century Swedes for war against Russian, and completed
Russian led by Alexander Suvorov. And here now this
The fortress historically passing from hands in hands, became a place
Annual summer pilgrimage of admirers of music and opera with
All world. Having covered a fortress court yard a grandiose ceiling, with the help
Technicians it was possible to create an auditorium with perfect acoustics.
The most remembered event of operno-musical festival in
Savonlinne for us there was a statement "Elektry" Riharda Strauss
New Israeli opera of Tel Aviv. All those complexities of the score,
Which R.Strauss has put in pawn in an opera, as though teasing soloists and
Orchestra, ideas which as he thought, never can
To be carried out, today, thanks to the new technics of a vocal, a steel
The real. It seemed, Marlin Zshau (Elektra) worked on a limit
Possibilities of vocal chords and virtuosity. Not leaving a scene in
Current of all performance, she irreproachably sang on the constant
Emotional and sound forcing trudnejshuju party, sometimes
Accepting thus the positions incompatible with singing, - having overhung
With risk for a life headfirst from a rising podium or
Crawling under it. Also it was magnificent and Rajnhild Runkel -
Klitemnestra. It was the show which has convinced us, that limits for
Creative possibilities of the person does not exist.
Sometimes rain and wind noise merged with voices of soloists,
Trying them to block, but it was not possible to the nature...
"Silja Lajn" - not Titanic.
COMMUNICATIONS of modern Europe are diverse. Here and we,
Having driven on roads of Finland about 500 km, have plunged together with
Our correct "Mercedes" on the ferry "Silja Lajn". It is huge
The ship, 12-storeyed floating city with garages, walking
Street, uncountable shops, restaurants and cafe, inhabited
Streets with houses-cabins, saunas, pools, discos and t.
Items Transparent lifts softly transfer you from a floor on a floor. It,
Possibly, same impressing miracle of a modern civilisation,
What was in due time ill-starred "Titanic".
Certainly, we, spectators of a film of Cameron, could at once
To recollect him after, having left our car on 3rd
Floor, have risen on 11th. And here paradox: than more
Impressing possibilities are opened by the ship, that recollect is more often
Film shots. Also you sit, as on an edge, on this alarm, especially
At distinct late night when all entertainments are already tried and
You in silence of the cabin listen attentively to deep breath
The giant ship, almost all time going not so is far from
Coast, but also it is not too close - among set huge
Stones-boulders, also you think, whether has fallen asleep vperedsmotrjashchy, all after all
People - could take a walk well the day before...
But, thanks God, travel has passed safely, and in the morning we
Were rolled out on coast in Stockholm and have directed further, in
Copenhagen, "having whistled" on the car all Sweden for one
Day.
Curled spikes of Copenhagen.
HERE it, this city with its New harbour. Actually it
Very old and the same as the channels connected with it, it is filled
Sailing vessels, boats, the ships, barges and other
plavsredstvami. The sea breathes here everywhere, and is more correct, you breathe
By sea. Copenhagen is a city in which cosy to live. Denmark -
Sparsely populated enough country, but very affable, even
The gentle. Meeting us in hotel "ц?'п п?пЁп п я п я " young kelner, with
To kind the Dane who is fine speaking English, has appeared white
The student-South African from Cape Town. Has studied in perfection
Danish, understands on-shvedski. Wishes to take roots here, but complains,
That there is no sun - all cloudy yes cloudy, it is few summer,
Pay it is not enough, taxes high as social payments are high,
For example on unemployment. It is possible to be on the grant, but after all without
Jobs completely not interestingly, are considered by our student. And this job
Quite good, takes away not so a lot of time, allows to study. Hotel
Prestigious, the weight of the well-known people here stopped:
McCartney, Lajza Minnelli, Ingrid and Ingmar Bergman, Lennon,
The Madonna, Elizabeth Taylor, Churchill and many other things, transfer
Whose names occupies solid space on hall walls.
Copenhagen, as well as many other things cities of Europe, is full
Gothic spikes. But here they as if characters from fairy tales
Andersen, the greatest person in Denmark, the most known in
The world of the Dane. These spikes that twist in the mutton horn,
Are decked by copper in the form of a narrow short flight of stairs are screwed in in the sky,
That the seamen who are coming back home, could see them from apart and
To sigh with simplification...
Fools and roads.
PRACTICALLY all roads on which we have driven, - convenient,
Equal, smooth, tempting on speed limit. Quantity
Traffic signs exceeds all reasonable limits, but they very much
Help, especially to foreigners.
Restrictions of speed are various: they depend not only on type
Roads, but also from the country. We had to go to Finland basically
On roads where speed should not exceed 80 km/h, and on
The best - not above 100 km/h. We have crossed Sweden on most
High-speed trans-European highway, where the maximum
The resolved speed - 110 km/h. And it as it has appeared, very much
It is strictly supervised. Once we, as present Russian,
Saddled a bird-three, flied on perfect Swedish avtobanu
With a speed of 142 km/h also exulted, that caught up cars at once
Concede us the left strip - eh, know ours. But suddenly slightly
Have begun to worry, having seen behind itself the police car,
Signalling to us to stop. Even more we were excited,
Having received from the policeman the instruction immediately to pay the penalty in
To the sum equivalent to 200 US dollars. He has told to us, that in
Sweden with it it is strict, and in Germany, for example, it is possible to go with what
It is necessary in the speed. And it is valid, there we rushed once with
In the speed of 210 km/h. The road allowed, and nobody stopped.
The Danish bridges are not less perfect European, and in particular. In
This year building of the magnificent is finished
tridtsatikilometrovogo bridge Malm? - Copenhagen. This huge and
The surprising construction on beauty has appeared high-speed
The motorway which is passing through passages, gulfs, the rivers, - it is awful,
Probably, road, but, strangely enough, the free. All bridges
Look extremely impressive, reliable and at the same time
Lungs, modern.
In Finland, Denmark, especially distinctly it is visible to Sweden, that in
The life gets idea about necessity of a unification of the person more and more
And the nature contrary to idea of struggle against the nature and victories over
Her. Just as integrity, continuity of times and forms. Not
Change of one epoch another as a result of revolution and destruction, and
izzhivanie one another: the new eats old, saving
The last in itself.
It is any other dialectics, than that to which we have got used.
Force is necessary not to resist to another or
Previous, destroying it and to maintain balance with it,
Gradually vzhivaja it in itself.
"Amsterdam, Amsterdam!."
We have arrived to Amsterdam in the late evening and, despite
Weariness, have there and then gone to look a city. It is a city, entirely
Constructed on set of channels, - a mix of Petersburg with Venice.
The hotel our, rather respectable and ceremonious, has appeared not
Only in city centre, but also end-to-end to "area of red lanterns".
We have seen the amazing city which has been filled in with red light. On
To set of narrow small streets and lanes the dense crowd wanders,
Mainly consisting of young men and the men who have gathered with
All world. They choose to themselves object of desire, which here,
Nearby, in a room behind glass attracts a finger, swings hips,
Exposes breasts... The Woman can be thin and thick,
Very young and not so, white and the negress, the European and
The slanting Asian, the Latin American. On all tastes. All
Are pomaded, decorated, attractive. Such impression, that almost
All women of the world have appeared on that party of glass, and the man all
Together here, on this. Their dense raised crowd exhaling
Smells of marihuana, desire, sperm, moves along these
Luminescing show-windows (the part from which, by the way, is already drawn
Impenetrable curtains, means - job goes, the goods have found the
The buyer). And you, being involved in this general movement,
It appear in whirlpool of a certain cheerful sex feast and not
You dare to resist to it, and you feel, that and it is necessary; you
You wish to feel yourself as its accomplice, instead of the observer or
The public prosecutor who has come to direct the usages here. A city
Has cracked all representations about morals, ethics, about intimacy of sex,
Has paraded itself and is in this respect absolutely
Unique place on a map of the modern world.
Sex parade, marihuana and freedom.
HERE you are not surprised already to anything, including reigning everywhere
To marihuana smell, "kosjachki" which are on sale in any cafe,
Called "coffee-shop". The big muzhiks drink drinks not more strong
Beer, all basically suppress Coca-Cola and other aerated water.
To us has carried: our stay in Amsterdam has coincided with
Celebrating of Day of a city. Next day we became witnesses
Annual celebratory water parade of sex minority of all
The world.
All Amsterdam, knowing, that parade is appointed to 2 o'clock in the afternoon, to
To this time poured out on coast of channels. And here, after the long
Expectations, music was heard, has begun to sound, already again, a song
"Amsterdam, Amsterdam!." (A hymn to a liked city), and from under the bridge
Opposite to us the first brightly decorated boat filled has seemed
The dressed up and painted dancing people.
Each boat had the karnavalnaja a subject: that is half-naked
Sailors, polichromatic hyperbolic ballerinas-transvestites,
That obscenely behaving cheerful conventuals or the same grade
Prelates. All preuvelichenno, brightly, and the main thing - is cheerful. Object
Sneers and jokes can become anything you like. But jokes cheerful, not
The malicious. Spectators ashore it is live - shouts, an applause, whistle,
razmahivaniem hands and movements in a step with music - welcomed
Each of 75 floating boats. A continuous kaleidoscope
The multi-colour figures bared and seminude, man's and
Female torsos, change of suits, ornaments, music - Babylon
Chaos on water. And for all 4 hours of a holiday of any
Collisions of boats, nobody has fallen in water. Ashore many were with
Small children, dogs. There was a sensation, that it someone
Invisibly operated also we were witnesses well organised
Chaos.
(Our summer anniversaries Air-landing are involuntarily recollected
Armies in TSPKiO or on VDNH. Contrast is striking.)
Freedom alphabet.
IN THE STREET absolutely near to our hotel any young
The person has handed over us a pack of leaflets-flyers, on a copy on
Everyone. They have appeared from police administration "area red
Lanterns "also told the visitor about behaviour rules in a city.
It is the unique document, which deserves to be
Extensively quoted.
Its motto: "Pleasure. Safety. The world". Police,
Welcoming visitors of a perfect and free city of Amsterdam,
Reminds, that here not all is allowed and there are some rules and
Restrictions. Their ten: "1. Have fun, but behave normally
(Remember, that here there live people with children, and they would like
To save the rest and a private life; it is not recommended
To get drunk, undress on public, to jump in channels, etc.).
2. It is impossible to shout and squeal - the penalty of 150 guldens (especially on
To evenings and nights, since. People living here should rise in the morning
On job; sing in pubs and cafe, have fun, but in the street conduct
Itself it is silent). 3. It is impossible to be wetted in not put places - the penalty 100
Guldens it is collected at once. (On celebrating of Day of a city in most
Crowded places have exposed round, as the columns opened pissuary
On 4 men everyone: was impatient to you - approach, become a back to
To public, faced to a drain also do easy business.) 4.
The alcohol use in streets - the penalty of 80 guldens (drink the
Beer in bars or on terraces). 5. Be careful of robbers and
Pickpockets (especially in crowded places). 6. Prostitution:
Visiting one of these women, remember, that they not always the presents
Women; it is impossible to film, swear them in their address;
Show to them some respect. 7. Heavy drugs (cocaine,
Heroin, LSD, ekstazi, etc.) are strictly forbidden (purchase of drugs
In the street - one of the most widespread traps for tourists).
8. Easy drugs - not for people are more younger 18 years (you can in
"Coffee-shop" to buy a small portion of an easy drug only for
Own personal use and only if you are more senior 18 years!
Do not use easy drugs in usual bars and other places -
Far not all like this smell of a general unification). 9. Do not play
In thimbles and similar games. 10. Here there is no free parking
Cars in streets (not paid parking can manage to you
Very expensively) ".
We did not manage to become witnesses of infringement at least one of
These rules. In streets there were no noisy drunk orgies. It is possible
To find to itself of any sex partner, thus in a city weight
Special clinics for testing for any bad illness,
Including AIDS and a syphilis. Not saying that all prostitutes
Have these inquiries and taxes pay regularly, doing also
Economic for all society uzakonennost the business
(Taxes and from "coffee-shops") obviously, so regularly are going to.
The control over undesirable consequences of sexual freedom
It is made unostentatiously, anybody anywhere does not drag anybody.
The state represents flexible, but unshakable force.
The most powerful energy - and sexual energy moves a life, war,
The world, creativity - possible to constrain in the tideway of the law and order.
People here, obviously, are accustomed to that, using the
Freedom, it is necessary to respect freedom of others. It, of course, lines
New civilisation. After all wars, centuries of inquisition, fires
And guillotines, nazi camps, GULAGov and Jewish pogroms,
Mutual murders and tortures we suddenly see, how interhuman
Relations aspire to balance - to tolerance and vzaimouvazheniju.
The person tests indulgence to another, completely not such, as
He, and even, can, to not nice it to the person. It
Indulgence - within that nenarushenija freedom of other people,
Which is absolutely necessary, that everyone could live how it
Wants. Here it, hi-tech of human relations.
We do not wish to tell, that to all of us in this city close. But we
Have admired with its rationality and tolerance. Only present
To itself for an instant that would be with Amsterdam constructed, as well as all
Holland, on the pieces of the earth won from water, if here, not
Give the God, there was an act of terrorism similar to explosion on
The Pushkin area in Moscow? About, they should behave very much
Accurately and reasonably, constantly to spread, to spread
Freedom and tolerance. And with our Chechen Republic it is not necessary for us?
"You from what steamship?"
In Europe which we have travelled all over in this summer, it is already enough
Often there are Russian. Having heard Russian speech, compatriots
In Amsterdam to us have called: "you from what steamship?"
One have appeared here as tourists or on job. Others -
Have lodged, and such most of all in Germany. Who ran from
Chernobyl, who - for fear for the future and with despair, not finding
To itself of a place in the country, who - for the sake of children. All - different
By "steamships", with the different purposes, but all with quite human and
Clear reasons. And that waitress who has met in to? lnskoj
To coffee house, the darling and even the beautiful blonde, in past theatrical,
Speaking to the modern language, the manager from Volgograd, arrived
Here with a daughter after the love... The Love has come to an end, but it
About what does not regret, such love - a rarity, and thanks, that it
Was; and a daughter 20 years, also it is necessary to give it a start in life, "to live it is necessary,
Here also I work ". And the Wiesbaden taxi driver thrown here from Kiev
To rescue children from Chernobyl, itself, as well as the wife, the musician with
Conservatoire education; here, however, music not
You will live, but anything, children will be learnt, will make the way. (By the way, they,
As well as all their friends and acquaintances, read "AiF", like our newspaper.
It is a thread, almost unique which connects them with the Native land.)
And here we think: after all Russian of Germans have won? Have won!
It was necessary to Germans pokajatsja, to relax and be engaged in the
Internal problems - energy of a survival has worked. And Russia,
Excited and revolution of 17th year, and a victory in Domestic
40, has intercepted ekspansionistskie aspirations of Germany... And
Has gaped the people. To live many Russian now in the country
It is bad. So, has won, it turns out, Germany?.
But, thanks God, we at last, apparently, have come round and have begun
To build a new life. And now Russian in Germany is not only
Attendants, but quite often and partners equal in rights,
Visitors here for business.
Reflecting over seen on a trip and just gone through at home,
You are convinced, that tehnorevoljutsija a millennium is the plait braided
From technical, economic and social achievements. And, more likely
Everything, the last should be the first if we do not want that
Technics pogrebla us under the fragments.
... At the airport of Frankfurt am Main our automobile computer
Has informed us: "your purpose is reached". And we have departed to Moscow. It
Was 4 hours prior to explosion on the Pushkin area...
P. S. The author thanks for B.Pavlova, V.Toropova's help
(Translator), B.Manenkova (driver).
Vladislav STARKOV.
<$>
//* an information Source: Arguments and the facts, 20.12.00
//* Reg. Nom. - 1101200291.12-------------------------------------------
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